Installation & Troubleshooting Videos

I just thought I'd run through some technical things on the Intelliflush — probably more problem solving. If you come across an Intelliflush and it's not flushing, there are some easy ways to test whether it's a solenoid valve issue, which it most likely is, or whether it's a controller issue. I'll run through those now.

Firstly, we'll assume it's all connected together. The first thing you want to check is that it's got the correct time and the correct day flashing. Once you know those are correct, you can manually try to get the valve to operate. You can do that two ways. You can press the mode button here once and it should say OFF on the screen. As soon as you press the mode button again, it should activate — you'll see START on the display and a tap symbol up here, and the solenoid valve should open straight away and flush for a period of time.

Now if it doesn't, that could mean the program inside is set outside of the current time. Say the program was set to flush between eight in the morning and two in the afternoon, and you get there and it's 2:25 or 2:30 — by hitting the mode button and toggling it like that, it won't open the solenoid valve. The way you get around that is to manually override it: hold down the SET button, and while you've got it held down, press the PLUS button once. Again, it should open the solenoid valve and it should flush for the period it's set for.

I should note that if it's a battery operated one, or say the cable has come loose or the power point's not working, you'll have an empty battery symbol in the corner of the screen. No matter what you do, whenever that empty battery symbol is on the screen, it won't flush.

The other way to test whether it's the unit or the solenoid is to isolate them. Disconnect the controller from the solenoid. Get yourself a 9-volt battery — you might have to go and pick one up from the local servo, but just grab a battery. Take your solenoid valve and put the battery across the terminals, positive to negative — and just like that, the solenoid has opened. It'll stay open until you reverse the battery around and touch it on again, and that should close it.

If putting the battery straight on the terminals doesn't operate the valve, then you know — pretty much 99% sure — the solenoid valve is gone. It's blocked, or the seal's gone. They're not expensive to replace. If it does work manually with the battery, then you know there's an issue with the controller: it could be a programming issue, or a flat battery. If it's a flat battery, work out whether there's power running to it, or if it's a battery-only model, just unscrew the back and replace the battery.

I hope that helps. Again, Shane from The Urinal Shop. If you run through those tests and still don't have any luck, just give us a call on 1800 874 625.

We're going to show you how to program an Intelliflush timer. As you can see, this one is in the OFF position. To turn it on, all you have to do is press the mode button once, and this is the start screen.

Setting the time and day. When it's in this position, to set the time — which is what you need to do first — hold down the mode button until the minutes flash. Using the plus and minus buttons, adjust the minutes to the current time in your state. When you're ready, press the SET button. Now adjust your hours, plus or minus, and press SET. At the top of the display you've got days 1 to 7 — that's Monday through to Sunday. At the moment it's Saturday, so 6 is flashing. To change it, press the plus or minus button, and once you're on the right day, press SET.

Adjusting the program. Most of these come pre-programmed, so you really don't need to touch anything except setting the time. But if you want to adjust the program, this is what you do. From the start screen with the correct time showing, hold down the mode button until the time flashes, take your finger off, then hold it down again until you see "STR" flashing with a number. That's the time the timer will start operating — in this case 7:00 in the morning. Adjust with plus or minus, press SET once to move across to the hours, adjust again, and press SET.

Next it flashes the end time — the time the timer stops functioning, i.e. the end of your work day. Plus or minus to adjust the minutes, press SET, adjust the hours, press SET.

Then it shows ON time. This is very important. Here it's flashing ON for 10 seconds — it's going to flush the urinal for 10 seconds. You can change that up or down, but 10 seconds is the optimal. Press SET once. Now — this is where people get confused — the digits now flashing are still part of the ON time, but they are minutes, not seconds. You want to keep those at zero. Press SET again; still in the ON section, this is the hours — you want that on zero too. If you put that on 1, it's going to flush for one hour and ten seconds, which is wrong. Make sure they're all zeros.

Press SET again and this is the OFF time — the period between flushes. This is minutes: it's set to not flush for 20 minutes. So it will flush for 10 seconds, be off for 20 minutes, then flush for 10 seconds again. Change it if you want; 20 minutes is probably optimal. Press SET; this is the hours — you can set an hour and 20 minutes, or two hours and 20 minutes between flushes if you want. Press SET.

Days of operation. Up here you've got the number of days it will flush. Right now there's a box around 1 to 7, meaning it flushes seven days a week. If you don't want it to flush on a particular day, press the minus button to take the box away — for example, take off Saturday, press SET, take off Sunday, press SET the last time. Now it's back to where we started, and if you're within the programmed time window it will actually go into flush mode.

Quick controls. Toggle the unit on and off with a single press of the mode button. To override the flush at any time, hold down the SET button and at the same time press PLUS — that opens the valve and the urinal flushes. To stop it, hold SET and press MINUS. I think you have it now — good luck.

Shane from The Urinal Shop — a quick video on how to test an Intelliflush solenoid valve. What you want to do is remove the controller: unplug the controller from here. You've got the valve here with plus and minus terminals. Grab a 9-volt battery and pop it onto the terminals one way — that's not opening it — so let's go the other way. See how I spun it around? Pop it on: it's open. Now I can blow through it, or water will go through it. Turn the battery around again, pop it on, and you heard that close. So: one way on, the other way off. That way you can tell whether the controller has a fault or is incorrectly set, or whether the solenoid valve has carked it. I'll leave that one with you — thanks.

Another quick video on the Intelliflush timer, this time for the mains-powered version. You need to make sure this power clip clips in hard. Just resting the clip in place is not a connection — what will happen is the rechargeable battery will go flat, and you'll be called out again because the timer's not working. You need to push past this little ring here, right in. You can even twist it as you push — that's a proper connection. Make sure you do that and you won't have any troubles.

The Urinal Shop here — I thought I'd run through some troubleshooting on an Intelliflush timer. Notice here we've got the valve connected up, and on the screen there is a battery symbol — that means the battery is dead.

If this is a battery-only model, you'll need to unscrew the four screws on this panel and replace the battery, which is a square 9-volt battery. I really recommend putting in a lithium or a Duracell — something fairly hardy, the kind that goes in smoke alarms — because they last longer. When the battery symbol is showing, you will not get the solenoid to work.

Say we've replaced the battery and hooked up the valve. Even though you've put in a new battery, the symbol will stay on the screen until you have reset the timer. To reset it: if it's in the OFF position, press the mode button once — you'll hear the solenoid click open — and when that turns off, it's ready. The battery symbol won't come up again.

If it's a powered unit — linked up with the connector to a transformer — and the battery symbol appears, you've probably still got a problem with the battery, and you need to replace it with a rechargeable one, which we stock. Then go through the same reset process. I'll leave it there for this one — thanks.

A quick run-through of the Flushsaver urinal flushing sensor. When we send these out, I send them out pre-wired, so all you need to do is plug the green plug into the back and sit it in the roof. That's the front of it — stick it in the roof.

There are four adjustments here that we preset. First is the sensitivity — the length of the beam that comes down to the urinal. We preset that so you don't usually have to touch it. The delay — again, not to be touched, needs to be on zero. Then duration — the duration of the flush, the amount of time the solenoid valve is open and flushing. We set it at around four or five, which is long enough for most urinals. And here you have the lockout, which we usually set on 1 — it just means that after it's flushed, there's a longer period before the sensor will come back on, sense again, and flush the urinal. As I said, it comes all preset, so you don't really need to do anything except plug the green plug in and plug it into power. Thanks.

As I mentioned in the previous video, we send these units out ready to go, all pre-wired. All you need to do is plug in that plug, plumb in your solenoid valve, and put this unit up in the ceiling. Imagine my white bench here is the ceiling: this end of the unit is the detection end, and it faces down towards the urinal.

Once you have the unit plumbed in and plugged in, plug the power supply into a power point, and this is what it does. It goes into delay mode straight away. Here's a simulation of how it picks people up: I wave my hand underneath the unit and you can see the sensitivity light flashes — that's it detecting that someone has been at the urinal. After a short period of time the delay light turns off and the duration takes over — there goes the solenoid valve, you heard it click, and it's flushing the urinal. Then it goes into lockout mode — a period of time we preset, around a minute or so — before it goes into another cycle. That's it, thanks for watching.

Some troubleshooting on these Flushsaver units. It's important to note that these solenoid valves are normally closed in the off position. So if you've plugged it all in and the solenoid valve is constantly running, disconnect the power supply or pull the green plug out, and the solenoid valve should shut off — it should be normally closed with no power. If it doesn't shut off, generally it's a problem with the solenoid valve.

You should put an in-line filter in before the valve at installation, because they're quite sensitive, and if dirt gets in them they won't close off properly — the way it starts is they begin to close more and more slowly. That's pretty much it. You can call us at The Urinal Shop if you have any issues with these.

G'day, it's Shane here from The Urinal Shop. I'm going to run through the tools you need and everything you need to do to pull apart a Flushsaver solenoid valve — just to clean out the diaphragm. Sometimes bits of washer and dirt get washed into these solenoid valves, and if they get under the diaphragm, the valve will constantly leak or run and just not turn off.

You'll need one of these tool kits, because they have a star (Torx) tool to pull it apart, and you'll probably also need these tools here.

Disassembly. First remove this screw and take the plug off the valve, exposing the valve and the coil pack. Take this nut off — and remember, everything you do, do it with care so you don't lose bits. With the nut off, the coil pack slides off. Next, take the cover off. This literally is your valve. We're going to take these screws out very carefully, because there are bits inside we don't want to lose. Loosen them all off first, take the top shaft off, then slowly take the screws out one by one. Always put the screws somewhere they won't get lost, because you're most likely doing this in a bathroom somewhere. Notice how I'm holding down the top with my thumb — there are springs in there. The last screw comes out and it starts to come apart.

Inspection. This part here is your diaphragm. You want to make sure it's clean in here. Using a small screwdriver, gently lever the diaphragm out without damaging it. What you're checking: the seat inside the valve body — make sure it's intact and clean — and the underside of the diaphragm — make sure the sealing area is free of any pieces of grit. Have a good check of it and confirm there are no splits, because a split will cause the same fault. You're checking for dirt, grit, and any imperfections in the diaphragm.

Reassembly. Once you've cleaned it all out, put it back together the same way it came apart. Put all four screws back in and tighten in diagonals first until snug, then go around and nip them up a little with your bar. It doesn't have to be extremely tight — tight enough that it's not going to come apart. Fit the cover back on, slide the coil pack on, and lock it up with the locking nut.

Testing. Once reassembled, the way to check these valves is to blow through them. Find the inlet and blow through it with no power connected — you should not be able to blow through it, because the valve is normally closed. If that's the case, you should be all good. Questions or comments — put them in the section below.

Hey mate — what I've done is simulated a stud wall, and I've put timber in on an angle, and cut a couple of little holes to fit the feet of the Flushsaver. The sensor sits in there like that. Once the wires are connected, that's how it goes.

And look — it's already detecting through that timber. You can see my hand — see how the light's coming on? That's picking me up, right through the wall board. Now I'll grab this tile — here's your simulated tile — and again, watch: I step back a bit, and it's picking up my hand straight through the tile. So that's what you need to do.

(From the video description: the sensor still needs to be accessible, so allow for an access panel or hatch. This sensor does not like being installed near anything made of metal — the wall in front of it needs to be timber or wall board like Gyprock.)

Hey everyone, it's Shane again from The Urinal Shop. I wanted to run through the Supaflush sensor we've been selling for a while now — there don't seem to be any videos on setup, so let's make it a bit easier.

Connections. Once you've got the valve plumbed in, come over to the sensor. Plug the valve's plug into the sensor — it's set up ready, you don't need to do anything else. Then get your battery and plug that in. As soon as I plug it in, the light on the front goes green-red, green-red — that means it's booting up the software inside. Once that stops, it's ready to go.

Settings. These come preset. You've got the pre-flush — I usually turn that one off [check: in the troubleshooting video Shane says he usually likes pre-flush ON — confirm house recommendation before publish]. Next to it is the sanitary flush: if no one has come into the bathroom for a period of time — this one's set for 24 hours — it does a quick 10-second flush just to keep the urinal moving. Down here is flush delay: the time after the sensor detects someone before it flushes. This one's set on 2, which is two minutes; most people like them sent out on 1, so it flushes after a minute.

On the front, one green light flashing every couple of seconds means it's ready to go.

Setting the flush duration. How long does the flush run once the sensor has picked somebody up? Hold the flush duration button in for three seconds and let it go — the solenoid valve clicks on, so in the real world the urinal is now flushing. When you think it's had enough — say 6 or 7 seconds — hold the button in for another three seconds and let it go. The solenoid clicks off, water stops, and that duration is now set.

So here's how it works in practice: someone uses the urinal, the sensor detects them, after one minute it starts to flush, it flushes for about 10 seconds, and turns off. That's it. I'll do a couple of other videos on troubleshooting. The Urinal Shop — Shane — more videos coming later.

G'day, it's Shane here from The Urinal Shop. I wanted to run through some troubleshooting on the Supaflush sensor we sell a lot of, to make it easier to test these when you get called out.

First checks. Note there's an LED light here — in all circumstances, if this is working properly there should be a green blinking light every two seconds. Look for that before you go too far. It's also good to check the settings. Make sure the pre-flush is on — what it does is give a small flush within a couple of seconds of someone standing under the sensor, so it lets you know it's working. The sanitary flush — we usually send them out with a 24-hour sanitary flush, so if no one comes into the bathroom over a weekend it still does a flush to keep everything fresh. And check flush delay — make sure you've got number 1 on, so it flushes one minute after somebody's been at the urinal.

If the system is misbehaving — say you've been called out because it's constantly flushing, which electronics can do — sometimes it's just a simple reset. But the first thing I tell people to do is test the solenoid valve, to make sure it's opening and closing.

Battery-testing the valve. This is the Supaflush solenoid valve. It has a black plug on the side: unscrew this screw and pull the plug off, which reveals the pins. Don't worry about the earth pin — concentrate on the other two. Disconnect the sensor's battery from its cables and use that battery to test the valve. With the water turned on, touch the battery terminals across those two pins. One way opens the valve; to close it, turn the battery around and touch it on again — you'll hear it click. If the valve turns water on and turns water off with the battery like that, you know the valve is not the problem.

Reconnecting. While you've been doing that, the sensor has powered down. Reconnect the valve plug, plug the green plug into the back of the sensor, and reconnect the battery. The sensor powers up — red and green lights for about 30 seconds while the software boots. Once it boots, the red light stops flashing and you'll have just a green light every two seconds.

Reset the flush duration. Hold the black button down for three seconds — you'll see the side light flash rapidly — then let it go. You'll hear the solenoid click and it starts to flush. Count six or seven seconds, hold the same button for three seconds again, and let go — the solenoid turns off and the flush duration is reset.

Once done, put it all back together, and make sure you put the cap back on — it stops dust and water getting into the sensor. The unit does a lockout after flushing, then resets itself into pre-flush mode, and when someone walks under it again it will do a full flush. That's what I do when I'm called out on site, and most of the time that fixes these up. Supaflush — Shane from The Urinal Shop.

In this video I'm going to quickly show you how to test a ZIP latching valve. You can do this on site — just make sure you carry a 9-volt square battery.

First take the plug off: unscrew this screw and pull the plug off. You'll see three pins. Don't worry about the earth pin — it does nothing for this test. Concentrate on the two pins here. Grab your battery, and all you're going to do is bridge those two pins. One way will work, one way won't. Tap it on — it clicks — and water should now run through it, or you can blow through it. To close it, reverse the battery around — I had it one way first, now reversed — touch it on, it clicks again, and it's turned off.

So again: battery on one way makes a loud click and opens it; turn the battery around, put it on, and it closes. If that doesn't work either way, you know you've got a solenoid problem. That's it from us at The Urinal Shop.

We got some questions on how to install an air gap. This is an air gap — it allows air to rush through into the urinal flush pipe so it flows better, and it's also required by Australian standards [check: confirm exact AS/NZS 3500 clause reference before publish — good opportunity to cite it on the page].

I have here 40mm flush pipe, and a sparge nut and seal. Here's how it connects up: sparge nut on, seal over the flush pipe, air gap connects on there, bring your sparge nut up and tighten until it makes a seal — nice and tight. I've mocked this up on the bench; in real life it sits up vertically like this, and your water inlet runs in here at the top. I'll leave it there — The Urinal Shop. We'll do some more how-to videos later.

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